Wedge Smear
WI Grade 2/3
ATES 1 (Simple)
Wedge Smear is a popular ice climbing crag in Kananaskis Country. The area has been a long-time practice area as it provides access to top rope routes. The area features several routes from Grade 2 to Grade 3 ice and a couple of bolted mixed lines. The crag is visible from the road and treats climbers to stunning views of Kidd Falls and Mt. Kidd. Please make sure to park at the Galatea Parking lot and not along the highway.
Popularity
27 people completed the survey
- 48% climbed it 1-5 times
- 52% climbed it over 6 times
Avalanche Frequency
- 78% have not seen any avalanche debris
- 22% have seen debris on the approach or at the base of the climb
Runout Debris
- 50% saw debris on the approach
- 50% saw it at the base of the climb or lower
Notes on Avalanche Debris
- Avalanche debris has been observed in the approach gully.
- Small deposits have been observed below the approach gully on the left-hand side.
- One respondent reported a loose wet size 1 avalanche occurring in the left-hand gully during the spring.
Avalanche Start Zones
- 33% believe the avalanche started right above the climb
- 33% believe the avalanche started well above the climb
- 33% were not sure where observed avalanches began
Contributing Factors
- New snow amounts: 33%
- Solar effect or warming: 33%
- Winds: 33%
Reported Avalanches and Incidents
One respondent reported that after significant snowfall and wind, slabs on the low-angle top-out just before the trees began to release over the climb. The resulting avalanche was likely smaller than a size 1 (or possibly even 0.5) yet sizeable enough to knock a climber off their feet.
Additional Notes from the Community
Kananaskis Public Safety assessed the area and determined that the slope below the climb is a drainage and not an avalanche path. This assessment leaves only the slope above and to the left of Wedge Spears as a concern, rated as ATES 1.